On my first trip to Oslo a few weeks ago, I was keen to fit a couple of hikes in around all the museums and galleries that Oslo has to offer. These two hikes appealed to me because of their variety and accessibility via public transport, but ended up delivering so much more, with delicious treats, fascinating history and gorgeous views.
Nordmarka Forest Hike
Key Details:
https://www.alltrails.com/en-gb/trail/norway/oslo/frognerseteren-skjennungstua–2
https://www.alltrails.com/en-gb/trail/norway/oslo/ullevalseter-skjennungstua-osl85
https://www.alltrails.com/en-gb/trail/norway/oslo/sognsvann-ullevalseter–2
For fresh air, endless green forest and sparkling lakes, delicious food and good views, this hike is definitely for you. Starting at Frognerseteren station, I caught the tram T1 from central Oslo for 40 minutes to the end of the line for a hike through Nordmarka. Located to the north-west of the Oslo, this is a hub for hiking and trail running in the summer and skiing in the winter, just north of the Holmenkollbakken Ski Jump and Museum.
The name translates to “north forest” and unusually, the forest is the geographical centre of the city. Perhaps this shouldn’t be so surprising as I have never been in a capital city that felt so connected to nature. This is in stark contrast to other capitals such as London, where the geographic centre is Trafalgar Square, and Paris, where it is in front of the Notre Dame de Paris.
The tram ride in itself was extremely scenic, particularly on the final stretch to Frognerseteren. The views stretch back over Oslo, with arguably the best view of the hike being at the start. Having taken in the blues of the island-dotted fjord from above, I headed into the forest along well-made, wide gravel tracks lined with deep emerald pines, wild flowers, mosses and flitting birds. The cool air and immersion in green made this easy trail a joy; I could have bounced along through Nordmarka all day if I didn’t have to get to the airport at some point in the afternoon.
I serendipitously timed the start of the hike to arrive at Tryvannstua Sportsstue a few minutes before opening time. This gorgeous “sports cabin” refuels hungry hikers, cyclists and skiers with homemade treats, both sweet and savoury, as well as hosting weddings and other events. Already intoxicated on the abundance of fresh air and green, I entered this cosy and incredibly cute cabin just as the pastries were coming out of the oven. A very tough decision on pastry and seating location, I found myself in a state of absolute bliss, eating what is quite possibly the best pastry I have ever consumed, still warm from the oven, in front of a sparkling lake. Flaky pastry, lemon custard, chopped pistachios and sugary icing, untainted mountain air, the dazzling blue of a lake and softer hues of a sky streaked with fluffy clouds… this is my definition of heaven.
Eventually dragging myself away, I carried on towards Skjennungstua, passing another lake and winding uphill through the pines. This “sports cabin” is located on a high point with views out over the forest and while already quite large, it was being renovated while I visited so should be even bigger and better. A little early for lunch and not yet ready to move on from my pastry, I grabbed a smørbrød, a Norwegian open sandwich made with various toppings on a single slice of buttered rye bread, and continued towards Ullevåseter Sportsstue. From here I took the more rugged trail to Sognsvann. Until this point I had been on wide, well-maintained trails used by hikers and cyclists (as well as trail running parents pushing prams up and down hills and, of course, dog walkers), so it was a pleasant change to be on a narrower trail. Dodging roots, skipping over rocks through running water and avoiding muddy patches, I felt like I was actually “hiking” in a more secluded section of the forest. If this is not your cup of tea, there is another option like the other trails that also heads to Sognsvann.
I had a hard time finding the perfect place for lunch, but eventually settled on a tiny peninsula on another lake, Store Aklungen. A smørbrød has never tasted as good as it did perched on that rock in amongst the pines, surrounded on three sides with sparkling water and no one in sight.
The last section of the hike hugged the side of another couple of lakes, followed crystal-clear waterways, and eventually joined up with the busy Sognsvann, a large lake that is a hot-spot for swimming and the home of the Norwegian School of Sports Sciences.
There are a huge variety of other trails through Nordmarka and the signage makes it extremely easy if you wish to branch off, often giving distances or estimated times on the signs to landmarks including tram stations and sportsstues. While I chose to hike, many of the trails are open for mountain biking and if brave enough, there are plenty of beautiful spots for a swim. All in all, if you have time for only one hike while visiting Oslo this is the hike for you. It was definitely the highlight of my four day trip!
Hovedøya Island Hike
Key Details:
After a blustery summer storm made way for dazzling sunshine, I made a quick decision to escape the city and make the most of the good weather. Hovedøya is the island closest to Oslo city centre and is reachable by ferry all year round. It is a great spot for swimming as well as hiking, and has a varied landscape with beaches, many protected wild flower species, forest and grassed areas. Hovedøya offers the benefits of being extremely reachable with a number of things to do and is only 800 metres across in any direction so it’s pretty difficult to get lost!
Enjoying every second on the deck of the ferry for the eight minute journey to Hovedøya, I arrived invigorated and ready to explore this little island. With the water shimmering in the post-storm sunshine, I set off on an anti-clockwise loop around the island. The trail consists of a mixture of wide, well-made trails, as well as some smaller, steeper ones on the eastern side of the island. With a pair of good shoes, this trail has plenty to explore and is very doable.
The island has an interesting and varied history, including the ruins of a Cistercian monastery, Hovedøya Abbey, dating back to 1147. The abbey held substantial economic power during the Medieval period, but was looted and burned down in 1532 after the abbot came into conflict with King Christian II. You can still walk amongst the ruins, but much of the stone work was taken to expand Akershus Fortress in the 17th century.
The island also has a significant military history, with two cannon batteries that can still be visited, installed during the Napoleonic War after Denmark-Norway became involved, as well as gunpowder depots at the high points of the island. A surprising and horrifying use of the island, I later discovered, was for the National Internment Camp for Women in Hovedøya. Following the liberation of Norway in 1945, around 5,000 Norwegian women were interned in camps across the country, the largest of which was at Hovedøya, without trial for working for or being sexually involved with German men throughout the war. Named Tyskertøs (German whores), these women were publicly shamed, being dragged into the street to have their hair cut off, forced to wear a “T” on their clothing, losing their jobs and being ostracised from Norwegian society more generally. There was no official legal standing as there was no law against what they had done, whether or not they had done anything at all, and therefore there were no trials. The internment of these women was instead justified as a means of protecting them from the public, as well as protecting the public from them, claiming high rates of STDs although this was found not to be the case. The second-in-command, Adolf Hals, stated in an interview 40 years later, “No, we never regarded it as a prison. The internment was a medically preventive measure where women who were presumed infected could be held up to three months… But of course, – when looking back at it today people may react to the camp bearing similarities to a concentration camp.” No men were ever interned.
Heading down a wide track to a bay on the western side of the island from the pier, the views were fantastic, particularly once you head up to the viewpoint at the western cannon battery. This is also the best spot for swimming on the island, with two little beaches and lots of space for picnics. Continuing on around the coastline anti-clockwise, there was plenty to see besides the water, with wild flowers and interesting geology. A lot of the trail was shaded, which was a relief from the surprisingly warm sun, and I particularly enjoyed the sections away from the coast surrounded by wildflowers of a myriad of colours and tiny wild strawberries.
Having almost completed the loop, I headed back to the ruins of the Cistercian monastery for a quick wander, then had my first taste of Norwegian pancakes with Brunost at Klosterkroa cafe, located next to the ruins. Brunost, or “Brown Cheese,” is a traditional Norwegian food, much loved and consumed by locals, but it has a rather polarising flavour to those not familiar with it. The colour and flavour are a little like dulce de leche, not like cheese at all, but with a sourness and sharpness that is definitely not present in dulce de leche. Its origins are in Norway’s poorer farming past where everything was given a purpose. Brunost is made from whey leftover during regular cheese production, the liquid remaining after curdling and straining milk, along with cream and milk. The rich colour comes from heating the mixture until it caramelises. Each farm has their own local recipe and unique taste depending on the type of milk used, goat, cow or a combination, as well as the animals’ diet and boiling time. I can’t say I loved it, but I definitely didn’t hate it either!
Full of pancakes and Norwegian nature, I returned to the pier for the journey back to central Oslo. For an easy hike that takes no time to reach from the centre of the city with the bonus of delicious food, Hovedøya is a great place to visit.
Xanthe Explores 
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